Nutrition
It is imperative for chameleons to eat a varied and nutritious diet. Most chameleons do well on a diet of crickets, tropical cockroaches, silkworms, hornworms, and super worms. Feeder insects must be gutloaded with fresh fruits and vegetables, whole grains, sunflower seeds, etc. Dog and cat food is not an acceptable gutload, and most commercially prepared "cricket food" does not contain a healthy balance of nutrients for a chameleon.
At Tree Candy Chameleons, we breed and feed our chameleons a diet of crickets, dubia roaches, silkworms, hornworms, superworms, mantids, and walking sticks.
At Tree Candy Chameleons, we breed and feed our chameleons a diet of crickets, dubia roaches, silkworms, hornworms, superworms, mantids, and walking sticks.
Supplementation
Chameleons need supplementation in captivity, and they will not thrive if they are not supplemented properly.
At Tree Candy Chameleons, we supplement our chameleons by dusting all feeder insects with calcium and an all-in-one supplement. Adult chameleons are fed every other day, with calcium being used 2/3 of the feedings and the all-in-one 1/3 of the feedings. For example, in a 6-day period, we will feed 3 days, with 2 of those days using the calcium (without vitamin D), and one day of the all-in-one.
At Tree Candy Chameleons, we supplement our chameleons by dusting all feeder insects with calcium and an all-in-one supplement. Adult chameleons are fed every other day, with calcium being used 2/3 of the feedings and the all-in-one 1/3 of the feedings. For example, in a 6-day period, we will feed 3 days, with 2 of those days using the calcium (without vitamin D), and one day of the all-in-one.
Lighting
Lighting is another imperative factor to optimum chameleon health. Captive chameleons can not metabolize calcium properly without the essential UVB rays from the sun. Since our chameleons can not live outdoors in most parts of the world, we have to provide a synthetic form of UVB through specialized light bulbs. These bulbs must be replaced every 6-12 months, depending on the manufacturer of the bulb. Failure to provide UVB AND proper supplementation can lead to MBD (metabolic bone disease), which is a serious, life-threatening illness.
In addition to your UVB bulb, you will need a basking light for your chameleon. This is usually a household bulb under a dome, and it provides a warm area for your chameleon to sit. A basking area aids in digestion. You must check your temperatures, as panther chameleons like to bask at temps in the high 80s-low 90s. You should test your basking spot often. If your chameleon begins basking too close to a bulb that is too hot, HE WILL BURN. They have poor pain receptors in their backs, and they often do not feel their skin burning from a bulb that is too close/hot. Burns will cause disfiguration and/or death. Please don't cook your chameleon.
In addition to your UVB bulb, you will need a basking light for your chameleon. This is usually a household bulb under a dome, and it provides a warm area for your chameleon to sit. A basking area aids in digestion. You must check your temperatures, as panther chameleons like to bask at temps in the high 80s-low 90s. You should test your basking spot often. If your chameleon begins basking too close to a bulb that is too hot, HE WILL BURN. They have poor pain receptors in their backs, and they often do not feel their skin burning from a bulb that is too close/hot. Burns will cause disfiguration and/or death. Please don't cook your chameleon.
Enclosure
Panther chameleons do best in screen enclosures. Yes, they need humidity, but the also need air circulation, which the screen cages provide. The recommended cage size for an adult male chameleon is 24"x24"x48". Females can be in slightly smaller cages.
The bottoms of the enclosures are best left bare. Most chameleon breeders are not advocates for substrate, as it can cause serious health issues if ingested. Cage cleaning is also easier without substrate.
The bottoms of the enclosures are best left bare. Most chameleon breeders are not advocates for substrate, as it can cause serious health issues if ingested. Cage cleaning is also easier without substrate.
Hydration and Humidity
This is a dripper made from plastic container, and some aquarium tubing and a drip valve.
Since chameleons do not drink from standing water, you will need a source of dripping or misted water for them to drink. You can have a drip system which can be bought commercially or made at home. In addition to a dripper, your enclosure will need to be misted to keep your chameleon hydrated and to keep the humidity up. Ideally, the enclosure should maintain a 60%-80% humidity level. Your misting source can be a hand sprayer or an automated misting system.
At Tree Candy Chameleons, we use an automated misting system. Mist King and Aquazamp are our preferred systems.
With water, you need drainage. People like to come up with creative ways to dispose of the extra water from the frequent mistings!
At Tree Candy Chameleons, we use an automated misting system. Mist King and Aquazamp are our preferred systems.
With water, you need drainage. People like to come up with creative ways to dispose of the extra water from the frequent mistings!